It's been years since I've returned but there seems to be something beautiful yet haunting that whispers to me from this place. I long to return. Recently I've been wondering what it is that draws me here. I wanted to pin it down and I will make an attempt here: From the moment I step foot onto this land there are heavy odours of garbage, smoke and sweat that assault my senses. Mixed with the heavy, humid air and the noises of car horns and peoples voices, the first few seconds are overwhelming. It is unmistakable, you are somewhere completely new. Riding through the streets in the night you can only make out shadows of buildings, cars, roads, trees. But even in the dark of night life is illuminated as you watch people twisting by one another on roads and pass by frail bodies scooting under empty spaces for a nights rest. The car speeds through the street and all the lights and people and voices become too much so you close your eyes. And you are struck by the pleasure ...